Now, you’ll need to look at the tartan’s weight. After locating your name on our Master Tartan List, you’ll notice that some tartans can be purchased in different weights. The cost of your tartan can vary based on the weight that you choose. You’ll also find that some weights are better suited to specific kilt styles. How can you choose the right weight for your kilt? Below, you’ll find out what these weights mean and which are best for certain kilt styles. This information can help you find the best tartan weight for your needs.
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Tartan Weight Basics
Let’s define exactly what we mean by “tartan weight.” This refers to the woven wool fabric’s thickness, heft, or substance. Tartan weight is typically measured in ounces per square yard. The higher the number of ounces, the heavier and thicker the fabric.
Here are the general categories of tartan weights you’ll commonly see:
- Lightweight (4-8 oz): Lightweight, almost sheer fabric with a lot of drape. Best for summer-weight garments.
- Mediumweight (8-12 oz): A versatile mid-range weight that works well for many garments. Has moderate thickness and drape.
- Heavyweight (13-16 oz): Thick, substantial fabric with less drape. Ideal for winter-weight kilts, coats, and more.
- Regimental weight (17-21 oz): The thickest, heaviest tartan weight. Historically used for military uniforms. Very warm with minimal drape.
Lightweight
These tartans weigh between 10 and 11 oz. They are typically between 58 and 68 inches wide. It isn’t our first choice for kilts, but making an excellent, lightweight kilt is possible. These tartans are typically woven in double width. These tartans are exclusively woven in Scotland and made entirely from premium wool. It’s an excellent option for people who live in hotter areas. Like great and formal kilts, kilts that have more fabric pair nicely with lightweight tartan. Opting for this tartan can keep your kilt from being overly heavy or hot. A medium-weight kilt may hang in a more flattering way, but you can still get a looser look or a crisp pleat with a lightweight kilt. This weight is an option for the 5 and 9-yard kilts, the phillabeg, and the ancient and great kilts.
Best Uses
So what are lightweight tartans best used for?
- Scarves and wraps
- Shawls
- Summer-weight kilts
- Skirts
- Dresses
- Blouses and button-down shirts
- Vests
- Fabric accessories like handbags, ties, etc.
A lightweight tartan will be your best bet if you envision a floaty, romantic garment or accessory. The sheer, drapey fabric lends itself beautifully to styles with lots of volume and movement.
However, there are some drawbacks to keep in mind with lightweight tartans. Because the fabric is so thin and delicate, it is more prone to wrinkling, snagging, and wear over time than heavier-weight tartans. Lightweight tartans aren’t the best choice if you’re looking for a crisp, structured look, as they don’t have enough body to hold a precise shape.
Care and Maintenance
Lightweight tartan fabrics require extra care to keep them looking their best. It’s generally advisable to dry clean lightweight wool tartans rather than machine washing them. If you wash them at home, always use the delicate cycle with cold water and wool-safe detergent. Never put lightweight tartans in the dryer, as the heat can shrink and feel the delicate wool fibers. Instead, lay the garment flat to air dry.
When pressing lightweight tartans, use a low temperature on the wool setting and a press cloth to prevent shine and heat damage to the fabric. Go easy on the steam, as too much moisture can cause the fabric to become misshapen. It’s best to store lightweight wool garments folded rather than hanging to avoid stretching.
Medium Weight
This tartan weighs between 12 and 13 oz. It can be woven in single or double width. If you select a medium-weight tartan, your kilt may have to be seamed together to make a great kilt. While you may want to avoid this, it’s important to remember that this is how these kilts were traditionally made. It’s our top recommendation for every type of kilt because this fabric is both resilient and durable. It provides the comfort of a lightweight kilt and the durability and flattering fit of a heavier kilt. As long as you check to see whether you’re purchasing a single or double-width kilt, you shouldn’t have a problem. You should also remember that your tartan will look more authentic if you opt for a heavier weight. This fabric is woven using 100% premium wool from Scotland. It’s available for 5 and 9-yard kilts, the phillabeg, and the ancient and great kilts.
Best Uses
Thanks to their versatile mid-range weight, you’ll find medium-weight tartans for various garments and accessories. Some of the most popular uses include:
- Kilts
- Trousers
- Suits and sport coats
- Skirts
- Dresses
- Shirts and blouses
- Interiors (drapery, upholstery, pillows, etc.)
Mediumweight tartans are an excellent choice for garments you plan to wear across multiple seasons, from spring through fall. Many people find 10-12 oz tartans the perfect weight for kilts, as they have enough substance to hang and swing nicely without feeling overly heavy or bulky.
Mediumweight wool tartans provide the perfect canvas for tailored garments like suits and structured skirts. They have just enough bodies to hold a clean shape and crisp pleats but still move with the wearer for comfort. In the home, medium-weight tartans are ideal for adding a touch of coziness and texture to upholstery, window treatments, and throw pillows.
Care and Maintenance
One of the benefits of mediumweight tartans is that they tend to be relatively easy to care for. Unlike more delicate lightweight fabrics, medium-weight tartans can typically be machine-washed on a gentle cycle as long as you use cold water and mild detergent. Lay the garment flat to air dry, or tumble dry on low if the care tags allow.
Of course, you can also have your mediumweight tartans professionally dry cleaned for the gentlest clean. If ironing is needed, use a wool setting and press cloth. A steamer is also great for smoothing medium-weight wool fabrics without direct heat. It’s fine to store medium-weight garments, either folded or hanging.
Heavy Weight
This tartan weighs between 15 and 16 oz. It is available in both single and double width. This is the tartan most commonly used by members of pipe bands. Because it’s so durable, it’s also an excellent option for anyone who plans on wearing their kilt regularly. However, it may not be the best choice for those in hotter climates because it’s less breathable. If you want a kilt with a more authentic look, you’ll find that a heavyweight tartan is your best option. It’s similar to the fabrics used for kilts in the past. With that said, this option may not be best for anyone new to wearing kilts. It’s also less than ideal for great kilts unless you’ve been wearing this kilt style for many years. The heavy-weight fabric is made from 100% premium quality wool in Scotland. It’s available for the 5 and 9-yard kilts, the phillabeg, and the ancient and great kilts.
Best Uses
The warmth and durability of heavyweight tartans make them the perfect choice for outerwear and garments that will really be put through the wringer. Classic uses include:
- Winter-weight kilts
- Outerwear like coats and jackets
- Suits
- Heavy-duty skirts
- Rugged trousers
- Blankets and throws
- Upholstery
If you’re looking for a tartan that can keep you toasty on a blustery winter day, look no further than a heavyweight wool. These beefy fabrics were made to layer up and block out the cold. Many people prefer a 13-16 oz tartan for kilts they plan to wear in the fall and winter, as the extra thickness provides warmth and structure.
For hard-wearing garments that can withstand daily use, you also can’t beat a heavyweight tartan. The dense weave is extremely resistant to abrasion, making these fabrics ideal for things like work wear, suits, and upholstery that will get a lot of regular wear and tear. With their crisp, substantial hand, heavyweight tartans are also excellent for structured garments that need to hold a tailored shape.
Care and Maintenance
Heavyweight tartans must be cared for despite their rugged nature to keep them looking their best. Dry cleaning is the safest method for cleaning heavyweight woolens, especially tailored garments like kilts and suits. If you wash at home, use the gentlest possible cycle with cold water and mild detergent formulated for wool.
Never put heavyweight tartans in the dryer, as the combination of heat and tumbling can feel the thick wool fibers. Instead, lay the garment flat to air dry, reshaping it as needed. Avoid using high heat when pressing heavyweight tartans. Steaming is a great way to remove wrinkles without damaging the fabric.
Regimental Tartan
This tartan weighs between 10 and 11 oz. It’s hand-woven on traditional-style looms but made from polyester/wool. It has a very authentic appearance and resembles the kilts worn throughout history. Even though it has worsted yarn, it’s spun more loosely than tartans woven by machine. The cloth also has a looser weave. Since it’s woven by hand, the tartan will likely have minor flaws. This can help to give it more character. It’s a particularly good option for reenactment kilts. However, it’s suitable for more modern kilts as well! Even though this type of tartan has a more authentic look, it can work with kilts in many different styles.
Best Uses
Given their extreme thickness and heaviness, regimental-weight tartans are best reserved for garments and applications that require maximum warmth and durability. Some common uses include:
- Traditional kilts
- Outerwear (coats, capes, etc.)
- Blankets
- Historical reenactment and costuming
- Upholstery
Since regimental weight fabrics were originally intended for hard-wearing military uniforms, it makes sense that many still prefer these hefty woolens for kilts and other garments that need to withstand years of wear. The thickness of regimental tartans gives kilts a very traditional look and feel, with lots of crisp body and stability.
These fabrics aren’t really suitable for garments that need any drape or movement, but they’re ideal for structured pieces that need to hold their shape. The density of regimental weight wool also makes it highly water and wind-resistant, so it’s great for outerwear designed to brave the elements.
Care and Maintenance
Regimental-weight tartans are definitely on the high-maintenance spectrum regarding care and cleaning. It’s best to dry clean these fabrics whenever possible, as the extremely thick wool is prone to shrinkage when washed. If you must wash at home, always use cold water on the gentlest cycle and dry flat, never in the dryer.
Pressing regimental weight woolens can be tricky, as they scorch easily and hold creases stubbornly once set. A professional press is really the best option for crisp results without damage. Use ample steam and a press cloth at home with no sliding to refresh garments between wears. Always fold regimental weight garments for storage rather than hanging them to prevent stretching.
Of course, tartan can be great for many other fashion items besides kilts. A Harris tweed purse is a great way to add a classic feel to any outfit.
Other Factors to Consider
When choosing the best tartan weight for your needs, there are a few other key factors beyond thickness and warmth. Here are some additional points to consider:
- Breathability: Lightweight tartans are generally the most breathable, while regimental weights are the least. A lightweight or mediumweight tartan may be more comfortable than a heavy fabric if you overheat easily or live in a humid climate.
- Ease of Care: As we’ve discussed, the heavier the tartan fabric, the more finicky it tends to be when cleaning and maintaining it. If you’re looking for a low-maintenance option, stick to medium and lightweight tartans that can be machine-washed.
- Longevity: Heavier-weight tartans typically last longer than lighter weights thanks to their dense, durable weave. If you want a tartan that will go the distance, a 13 oz or above fabric is the way to go.
- Comfort: The thickness and rigidity of heavyweight tartans may feel restrictive to some, while others may find the structure comfortable and cozy. Consider your personal preference for fabric feel and movement when choosing a weight.
- Authenticity: A heavyweight tartan will give you an authentic look and feel for the most traditional kilt styles and other historic Scottish garments. Opt for a regimental weight tartan if you’re going for a period-accurate recreation.
- Climate: Where you live and when you plan to wear your tartan garments should heavily influence your fabric weight choice. Lightweight tartans are best for hot climates and summer wear, while heavy and regimental weights are ideal for cold conditions.
- Cost: Generally, expect to pay more for higher-weight tartan fabrics requiring more raw materials. Regimental-weight tartans can be incredibly pricey, so budget accordingly.
