Tree Service Guide | Tree Care Guide For Residents Of Iowa

From Des Moines, Special thanks to Treeremovaldesmoines.com a Des Moines Tree Service provider, for writing this article for us.

Trees in Iowa take a beating. Between the -20° winter freezes and summer storms that rip through Des Moines neighborhoods, keeping trees healthy isn’t just about looks – it’s about safety. Dead branches don’t care if they’re falling on a new Tesla or a beat-up pickup truck, and emergency removal always costs more than regular maintenance. Trees that are well-maintained provide shade, improve air quality, and enhance property values. Trusted professionals like offer invaluable expertise in maintaining these natural assets, ensuring they remain healthy and visually appealing. By utilizing professional tree services, you not only enhance the beauty of your surroundings but also contribute to the overall well-being of your community.

Most folks don’t think about their trees until a branch crashes through their garage roof or their kids can’t use the backyard because of dropping limbs. But here’s what matters in Iowa: our soil is different here. Our weather is rough. And the trees that grow strong in California or Florida won’t always make it through an Iowa winter. This guide breaks down what actually works for trees in our state, focusing on the problems we deal with from Des Moines to the smallest farming towns.

What local permits you need (varies by city)

When it comes to tree removal in Iowa, the rules can differ quite a bit depending on where you live. Generally speaking, you won’t need a permit to remove trees on your private property unless your local ordinances have specific restrictions. However, if you’re dealing with street trees, you’re almost always required to get a permit. These trees are considered part of the public landscape, and the upkeep often falls on the adjacent property owners, which is why the city takes a closer look at any removal.

Statewide, the approach is fairly straightforward: most residential tree removals don’t require a permit unless local laws say otherwise. But if you remove a street tree without the proper paperwork, you could be facing fines that can average around $10,000. Of course, these penalties can vary depending on the city’s own rules, so it pays to check before you start any work.

The requirements on a local level show some consistent trends. For instance, cities tend to require permits for any tree removal along public streets because these trees contribute significantly to our community’s aesthetic and environmental health. On the other hand, trees on private property generally don’t need a permit unless they’re considered significant – often defined as those with a diameter of six inches or more at breast height. This is the case in cities like Des Moines and Cedar Rapids, where the local regulations mirror one another in requiring permits for both sizable private trees and all street trees. Iowa City even goes a step further by not only requiring permits for these removals but also having guidelines in place for replanting after a tree has been taken down.

The process of obtaining a permit is quite practical. Most cities ask that you fill out an application form, which you can usually do online or in person. Along with the form, you might need to submit a site plan that clearly shows the location of the tree or trees you want to remove. Permit fees typically range from about $65 to $250, depending on the city. In some cases, a field inspection is part of the process before the permit is finally granted.

There are also a few additional points to keep in mind. Many municipalities require that if a tree is removed, a replacement tree must be planted, especially in cases involving street trees. This is part of a broader effort to maintain the community’s urban forestry and environmental health. On the flip side, some cities offer exemptions under certain circumstances, such as when a tree poses a clear hazard or if there are other compelling reasons to bypass the usual rules.

Since these regulations can differ so much from one city to the next, the best course of action is to check with your local municipal office or visit their website before making any decisions. By doing so, you can ensure that you’re following the correct procedures and avoid any unexpected fines or penalties later on.

Picking the Right Trees for Iowa

The winters here hit -20°F. Summer droughts bake the ground hard. And those March storms can snap weak trees like twigs. But pick the right tree for your Iowa yard, and it’ll grow strong for decades. Let’s break down what works in our soil and climate, neighborhood by neighborhood.

What Actually Survives Our Winters Start with trees that can take a beating from Iowa weather. Sugar maples handle our cold snaps better than most – they’ve been doing it for hundreds of years around Des Moines. Red oaks are another solid bet. Their thick bark shrugs off winter damage, and they grow deep roots that anchor well in Iowa soil.

• Kentucky coffeetrees might look scraggly in winter, but they’re built tough. Those bare branches in winter mean less ice damage when storms hit. River birch works great too, especially in yards that get wet in spring. Just don’t plant them too close to paths – their roots spread wide.
• Best Shade Trees for Iowa Yards Need shade that won’t die on you? Northern red oaks grow big enough to shade half your yard, and they handle Iowa’s clay soil better than most. Lindens work well too – they grow fast but stay strong. If you’ve got a smaller yard, try a hackberry. They don’t get massive like oaks, but they’re just as tough.
• Swamp white oaks might sound weird for Iowa, but they’re perfect for spots that flood in spring. And unlike pin oaks, they don’t drop branches every time the wind kicks up. Just remember – any shade tree needs at least 20 feet from your house. Roots spread wider than branches.
• Trees That Won’t Wreck Your Foundation Nobody wants roots cracking their basement walls. Serviceberry trees stay small, with roots that behave themselves. Same goes for flowering crabapples – just get the disease-resistant kinds bred for Iowa. Japanese tree lilacs work great near houses too. Their roots grow down more than out.
• Skip silver maples near buildings – their roots are aggressive. And never plant willows close to water lines. They’ll find any crack and make it bigger. If you need something taller near the house, try an ironwood. Slow growing, but worth the wait.
• Flowering Trees That Handle Our Weather Want spring color that actually lasts? Redbuds flower early and handle late freezes better than most. Eastern redbud varieties especially – they’re native and tough. For summer flowers, check out yellow-wood trees. Takes them a few years to get going, but then you get white blooms that smell amazing.
• Serviceberries give you flowers in spring and berries in summer. Birds love them, and they handle Iowa winds without breaking. Flowering crabapples work too, but get newer varieties like ‘Prairie Fire’ or ‘Donald Wyman’ – they resist apple scab better than older types.

Dutch elm still hits our neighborhoods hard

Dutch elm disease still hits Iowa hard, and I’ve watched it change the look and feel of our streets in ways that go beyond aesthetics. When these towering elms start to wilt, you notice neighbors swapping stories and voicing frustration. It’s tough to see something that’s been part of your community for decades succumb to a problem you feel powerless against.

According to data from the Iowa Department of Natural Resources, the disease has wiped out the vast majority of native American elm trees since the 1950s. Many towns across the state lost thousands of elms during peak outbreaks, leaving gaps that folks are still trying to fill. If you suspect an elm in your yard is infected, there are a few steps you can take, though success rates vary:

1. Watch for early signs: If leaves start turning yellow or brown on one side of the canopy, don’t wait around. Quick action might save the tree.
2. Call a local arborist: They can help determine if pruning away diseased branches or injecting fungicide is worth the time and cost. For especially old or valuable trees, some homeowners see it as a worthwhile gamble.
3. Remove infected wood properly: If the tree can’t be saved, it’s crucial to remove it and dispose of the wood in a way that doesn’t invite bark beetles to stick around. These insects carry the fungus from tree to tree, making strict disposal rules important.
4. Plant diverse species: Consider replanting with resistant elm varieties or other hardy shade trees recommended for Iowa’s climate. Diversity in our yards and along city streets lowers the risk of losing everything to one disease or pest.

Preventive care won’t guarantee full protection, but staying vigilant helps. Many local extension offices offer free advice, and some cities run cost-share programs to replace lost trees or cover part of the treatment. Every community handles it differently, so it’s worth asking around or checking the Iowa State University Extension website.

There’s no foolproof way to keep Dutch elm disease from popping up, but knowing what to look for, working closely with professional tree services, and following city regulations on removing infected wood all help. Even though the losses are heartbreaking, especially for those of us who grew up under the shade of these giants, efforts to save healthy elms and replace the ones we’ve lost are still going strong. It’s one way to honor the history and keep our neighborhoods looking like home.

Storm damage and weak branches

Living here, you quickly learn that Iowa storms don’t pull any punches. I’ve been through a few rough seasons where the wind and rain seem determined to leave their mark on every tree around. After a storm, it’s not uncommon to see branches that have snapped off or entire limbs that look too frail to withstand another bout of harsh weather. It’s a reminder that even the sturdiest tree can have its vulnerabilities, especially when faced with the unpredictable forces of nature. Whether it’s a sudden gust or the lingering aftermath of a storm, dealing with damaged or weak branches becomes a shared concern for many of us who care about keeping our yards and neighborhoods safe.

Actual issues with bugs and diseases in Iowa cities

I’ve noticed that many folks in Iowa are dealing with more than just Dutch elm disease. The emerald ash borer, for instance, has spread through a good chunk of the state, and it’s forcing homeowners to remove ash trees that have been around for generations. Japanese beetles are another headache, chewing through leaves and weakening trees if they’re not kept in check. There’s also oak wilt, which can kill a tree in a matter of weeks once it takes hold. When you’re out for a walk, you might see leaves that look spotted or curled, which can be a sign of fungal infections like anthracnose. Each city handles these threats a little differently, whether it’s offering advice at local extension offices or imposing strict rules on disposing of infected wood. But the bottom line is that these insects and diseases aren’t going away anytime soon, so staying informed is your best line of defense.

Basic trimming you can handle yourself

For smaller jobs, you don’t always need to call in a pro. I’ve found that if the branch is about arm’s thickness or smaller, you can often prune it with a sturdy pair of loppers or a hand saw. It helps to snip off dead or broken limbs right where they meet the trunk, and it’s a good idea to make a clean cut just outside the branch collar (that slightly raised area at the base of the branch). Doing this can prevent disease from settling in and spreading deeper into the tree. I generally keep an eye on lower limbs that might be blocking a sidewalk or rubbing against a house, and trimming them early can head off bigger problems. Just remember to avoid hacking away too much at once, because over-pruning can cause stress that leaves the tree open to pests and disease.

Essential Tools for Tree Trimming

1. Loppers
   • Description: Long-handled pruners that provide leverage for cutting thicker branches.
   • Recommended Size: 2-3 inch cutting capacity.
2. Hand Saw
   • Description: A small, lightweight saw ideal for cutting branches that are too thick for loppers.
   • Recommended Type: Pruning saw or folding saw.
3. Pruning Shears (Secateurs)
   • Description: Ideal for cutting smaller branches and dead growth.
   • Recommended Size: For branches up to ¾ inch in diameter.
4. Pole Pruner
   • Description: A tool with a long reach, allowing you to cut high branches without a ladder.
   • Recommended Type: Manual or telescoping pole pruner.
5. Safety Gear
   • Description: Essential for protecting yourself while trimming.
   • Items Include: Safety goggles, gloves, and a hard hat (if working near power lines).
6. Tarp or Drop Cloth
   • Description: Useful for collecting cut branches and debris to keep your workspace tidy.
7. Garden Fork or Rake
   • Description: For cleaning up leaves and smaller debris after trimming.

Where to Buy Online

US & Global

1. Gardener’s Supply Company
   • Website: gardeners.com
   • Offers a variety of gardening tools including loppers and pruning shears.
2. Ace Hardware
   • Website: acehardware.com
   • A good selection of hand tools and safety gear.
3. Walmart (Online)
   • Website: walmart.com
   • Features a range of garden tools at competitive prices.
4. True Value
   • Website: truevalue.com
   • Offers various gardening tools and equipment.

United Kingdom & EU

1. Toolstation
   • Website: toolstation.com
   • Provides a wide range of tools, including gardening supplies.
2. Wilko
   • Website: wilko.com
   • Offers affordable gardening tools and accessories.
3. B&Q (DIY Store)
   • Website: diy.com (B&Q)
   • A popular home improvement store with an extensive range of garden tools.

By using the right tools and purchasing them from these mid-sized online retailers, you can effectively manage your tree trimming tasks while ensuring safety and efficiency!

Warning signs you need help fast

If a tree starts losing leaves in the middle of the summer or you notice large splits in the trunk, it might be time to call a professional. Another red flag is if you see sawdust at the base or small holes in the bark, which can indicate pests burrowing inside. I’ve also learned that sudden leaning, especially after heavy rain or wind, can mean the root system is compromised. When you spot something that’s beyond your skills or equipment—like big limbs dangling over a power line or branches you can’t safely reach—it’s best to get in touch with a certified arborist. Trying to handle large-scale trimming or complex tree issues on your own can lead to injuries and more damage in the long run, so don’t wait if you feel in over your head.

Spring cleanup after winter damage

When winter finally loosens its grip here, I like to get outside and look around for any trouble that may have cropped up while the ground was frozen. It’s not just about picking up fallen branches, though that’s usually the first order of business. In many Iowa neighborhoods, heavy snow and ice can weigh down limbs until they crack or split. A couple years ago, I found a sizable branch from a silver maple that had snapped clean off and was lodged in my shrubs. Once you discover something like that, it’s best to handle it right away. If you can safely cut it up with a handsaw and haul it off, you’re good to go. But if you suspect a bigger, more dangerous break, you might want to hire a tree service. I’ve heard too many stories about folks thinking they could yank down a broken limb themselves, only to have it swing in a direction they didn’t expect.

After the debris is cleared, I do a closer inspection of the trunks and main branches. Sometimes, winter storms leave behind shallow cracks or frost damage that isn’t easy to spot at first glance. On a still afternoon, I’ll walk around each tree, looking for seams in the bark or places where bark has flaked off. If I see something suspicious, I’ll tap lightly on the wood with a small rubber mallet to check if it sounds hollow. That’s not a surefire test for rot, but it can give you a hint. Also, if you have any trees that were on the edge of your property near a salted road, you might see salt damage on the lower bark or in the soil around the base. Some people I know have had to remove or replace topsoil near the trunk because of salt buildup.

Once that inspection is done, I focus on the lawn. Wet leaves or branches that sat under snow all winter can lead to mold or fungus problems. Even if you raked thoroughly in the fall, there always seems to be a layer of half-rotted material that surfaces once the snow melts. I take a sturdy rake, clear everything out, and let things breathe. Sometimes, you’ll uncover patches of lawn that look soggy or appear dead around the edges. In those areas, I’ll sprinkle a little grass seed mixed with compost to help them recover. It might be tempting to plant new shrubs or saplings right away, but I usually wait until the threat of another frost has passed. Late spring is a safer bet for planting, at least around here.

I also keep an eye out for early signs of disease. In the spring, certain fungal issues show up as discolored blotches on the first leaves. Even though it’s early in the season, pests like aphids or mites can emerge when the temperatures start inching up. If you spot curling leaves or weird speckles, a quick spray with a suitable product or an old-fashioned mix of water and mild soap can sometimes knock them back. Of course, if you’re dealing with something more serious like an infestation of emerald ash borer, that’s beyond typical DIY measures. You’d likely need expert help for that. But for small-scale problems, a bit of vigilance and timely action can go a long way.

Spring is also a great time to add a layer of mulch around the base of trees and shrubs, taking care not to pile it too high against the trunk. I learned this the hard way when I first began mulching. I figured more was better, and ended up creating a damp mound where insects decided to set up shop. Now I keep the layer no more than a couple inches thick and pull it slightly away from the trunk itself. This helps keep moisture in the soil where the roots can use it without inviting rot or pests into the bark. A tidy mulch ring also makes mowing easier, which is a plus once the grass starts taking off in late spring.

All in all, my approach in the weeks after the snow is gone is pretty straightforward: check for breaks, remove debris, and assess any damage that might have gone unnoticed through the cold months. If you’re thorough early on, you’ll catch problems before they get worse. By the time the trees start leafing out in full, you’ll have a better sense of how they fared over the winter. If you act quickly on minor issues, you’ll stand a better chance of keeping your landscape healthy for the warmer months to come. It’s also a rewarding way to shake off the winter blues—there’s something satisfying about getting outside, breathing fresh air, and setting things right after a long, cold stretch.

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Summer maintenance tips

Once we settle into those warmer months, I’ve found that the key to healthy trees is a balance between enough moisture and not too much. Iowa summers can swing between storms that drop several inches of rain in a day and dry spells that leave lawns looking scorched. I usually pay attention to the soil around the root zone. If it’s looking cracked and dusty, that’s a sign the tree might appreciate a thorough watering. But slow and steady is better than dumping a bucket in one go. I use a soaker hose or a sprinkler on a gentle setting, letting the water seep in over time. It’s tempting to water every day, but I’d rather do a longer watering once or twice a week, ensuring the roots have a chance to soak up what they need without encouraging shallow growth near the surface.

Another part of summer care is keeping a watchful eye for pests. Japanese beetles seem to appear around mid to late summer, turning leaves into skeletons. I’ve tried everything from trapping them in bags to shaking them off into a bucket of soapy water. Traps can work, but if you set them up incorrectly or too close to your plants, you might actually attract more beetles. A neighbor of mine sets his traps at the far edge of his yard, away from the rose bushes and fruit trees. That strategy seems to cut down on the damage. If you notice these beetles or others, it helps to act quickly. Leaving them too long can weaken a plant substantially, especially if it’s already stressed from heat or drought.

Pruning in the summer is usually minimal for me, but sometimes I’ll remove water sprouts or suckers that pop up around the base of fruit trees or ornamental varieties. These are those thin shoots that grow straight up, often robbing the main part of the tree of nutrients. A clean cut at the point where they emerge can help direct the tree’s energy toward the more important limbs. I also like to keep an eye out for branches that show signs of disease, such as leaves turning brown unexpectedly or a canker in the bark. If I see something like that, I’ll trim it off, disinfect the pruning tool, and then keep an eye on the rest of the tree. During summer, diseases like fire blight on certain fruit trees can spread quickly, so addressing it right away can save you a bigger headache down the line.

The intense sun and heat can be harsh on younger trees that haven’t developed a strong root system yet. I’ve noticed that newly planted saplings benefit from a layer of mulch to keep the soil cool and retain moisture. Sometimes, I even put up a temporary shade cloth for very young or sensitive species if we’re in a heat wave. It might look a bit odd in the yard, but I’d rather have a funny-looking setup for a couple of weeks than lose a tree I just invested time and money planting.

Fertilizing in the middle of summer isn’t always necessary, but some folks do apply a light dose if the soil is known to be lacking in nutrients. I’m cautious about fertilizing when it’s really hot, because too much nitrogen can stress a plant if it’s already struggling under high temperatures. If you do fertilize, a slow-release product is often recommended, letting nutrients feed the tree gradually over a few weeks. That approach can be gentler and doesn’t shock the plant. But before you go adding anything, it’s wise to have a sense of what your soil actually needs. Some people have their soil tested through the local extension office or use a simple at-home kit.

Summer is also prime time to stay on top of weed growth, which can compete with your trees and shrubs for water and nutrients. Dandelions, crabgrass, and other stubborn weeds often thrive in warm weather. I’ve had some success using a thick mulch layer to block out sunlight and reduce the number of weeds that pop up. If you’re the kind of person who likes a tidy landscape, this tactic can cut down on your weeding chores, too. Just be mindful not to pile the mulch too high around the trunk, like I mentioned earlier.

One last thing I do during summer is keep an eye on the overall shape and structure of my trees. This is when you get to see how they fill out in full leaf, so you’ll notice if one side is heavier or if branches are crossing in awkward ways. If it looks like a heavy branch is hanging precariously over a driveway or walkway, you might consider some corrective pruning in late summer or early fall. But don’t get too carried away—midsummer isn’t always the ideal moment for big pruning jobs, especially for species that might bleed sap or attract pests through fresh cuts. Think of summer as a time to fine-tune and pay attention. With steady watering, a bit of mulching, and prompt pest control, you can guide your trees through the hottest weeks without too many problems.

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Fall prep work

As the days start getting shorter and the temperatures cool, I’ve always found fall to be a good window for planning ahead. We usually think of autumn as the time when leaves drop, and that’s certainly a big part of it. Raking leaves is an ongoing task, and some years it seems like I’m hauling away endless bags. But beneath that layer of leaves, the roots of your trees are actually still active if the soil remains warm enough. That’s why many folks, myself included, like to do any necessary transplanting or new tree planting in early fall. The cooler air puts less stress on the leaves, while the roots still have a chance to settle in before winter hits.

When I decide to plant a new tree at this time of year, I dig a hole that’s a bit wider than the root ball and try to break up the soil around the edges so the roots can grow outward. If the tree comes in a burlap sack, I’ll loosen it gently and cut away any synthetic materials that might restrict growth later on. After setting the tree in the hole, I fill it back in with a mix of native soil and compost, tamp it gently, and water thoroughly. Mulching around the base is the final step, but again, not too thick right up against the trunk. It can be tempting to stake a new tree, but unless it’s in a particularly windy spot, I often skip that. A little natural movement helps the trunk develop strength. If a stake is necessary, I make sure it’s not too rigidly tied, so the trunk can still flex.

In addition to any planting, I try to handle light pruning in the fall. The leaves are dropping, which makes it easier to see the structure of the branches. That said, I won’t do a major pruning job if I can help it, especially on species that prefer pruning in late winter or early spring. But it’s a good moment to remove any dead, broken, or diseased branches that might have been overlooked in the summer. I also like to check the lower limbs of my bigger trees to make sure they’re not dragging down with the added weight of leaves or hidden damage. Trimming those back while the weather is still mild gives them a chance to heal before colder temperatures arrive. If I notice anything that looks significant or risky, I might call in a professional. But for small limbs, I usually handle it myself with a pruning saw or loppers.

Another step I take in the fall is fertilizing, but I’m careful about the type and timing. A slow-release fertilizer that is labeled for fall application can help strengthen the roots without spurring a bunch of new leaf growth that might freeze later. Some people skip fertilizing entirely and rely on compost or leaf litter that breaks down naturally. I tend to gather most of my leaves, but I do leave a layer of them in a corner of my yard to decompose, then mix that into the soil in other spots. It’s a small-scale way to recycle nutrients back into the ground. If you go that route, just be sure the leaves aren’t diseased or loaded with pests.

Speaking of leaves, one of my biggest lessons was to avoid letting fallen leaves pile up directly against the foundation of my house or around tree trunks. Damp leaves can invite fungal growth and critters looking for a warm spot to nest. I try to rake them up regularly, and if I’m feeling ambitious, I’ll use a leaf shredder to create mulch for garden beds. I also pay attention to gutters and downspouts this time of year. Clogged gutters can lead to water spilling over and flooding the ground around your trees or even seeping into the house.

In late fall, once most leaves are down, I make one more sweep of the yard to check for any signs of rodent or insect damage near the base of trees. Voles, for instance, can chew away bark near ground level if they’re nesting in thick mulch or leaf piles. If I spot fresh holes or gnaw marks, I’ll reduce any cover that might be attracting them and consider protective wraps for the trunks of younger trees. By the time the first frosts arrive, you want everything in good shape, because winter in Iowa can be unpredictable. I’ve seen mild years where I hardly had to worry, and I’ve seen brutal cold snaps that test every living thing in the yard. Prepping in the fall makes it more likely your landscape will come through those extremes intact.

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Winter protection that works

Winter can hit us pretty hard, and I’ve discovered a few strategies that help trees cope with the cold, wind, and snow. One of the first things I do before the ground freezes is a final deep watering, especially if we’ve had a dry autumn. Moist soil holds heat better than bone-dry soil, and that can give roots a slight edge in freezing temperatures. After watering, I’ll check my mulch rings and add a fresh layer if needed. This helps insulate the roots against rapid temperature swings. But I’ll stay consistent about leaving a bit of space around the trunk itself, to avoid inviting rot or pests looking for a cozy spot.

For younger or more delicate trees, I sometimes use a trunk wrap or tree guard during the coldest months. This can help protect them from sunscald, which happens when warm daytime sun thaws the bark, followed by freezing nighttime temperatures that cause the bark to crack. I’ve seen this especially on the south or southwest sides of young maples and fruit trees. A simple paper or plastic wrap, loosely applied, can reduce that daily fluctuation in temperature. Some folks also use burlap to shield evergreen shrubs from drying winds. I had a row of evergreens one year that got brown patches because of constant winter gusts. Wrapping them in burlap for a few weeks helped them bounce back the following spring. It can look a bit odd, but it beats losing those plants entirely.

Snow itself isn’t always a problem, as long as it’s not too heavy or accompanied by ice. Fresh snow can actually insulate the soil. But ice storms are another story. When freezing rain coats branches, the extra weight can cause splits or breakage. I try not to knock off the ice directly, because I might do more harm than good, but if there’s a branch bent low under the weight, I’ll gently brush off some of the buildup if I can do so safely. A friend of mine once took a broom to an icy branch, hit it too hard, and ended up snapping the branch he was trying to save. Sometimes you just have to let nature run its course, though I’ll prune any major breaks as soon as the weather allows, so they don’t become entry points for disease.

When we get those random thaws in the middle of winter, I keep an eye out for water pooling around tree bases. If the ground is still partially frozen, melting snow can’t drain well, and that can lead to standing water. I’ll occasionally dig a small channel to redirect water away from the root zone if it seems like the ground is staying swampy for too long. This may seem like extra work, but I’ve seen water freeze solid around a trunk, leading to bark damage and even root rot.

Some folks in town like to spray anti-desiccants on broadleaf evergreens to help them retain moisture in winter. I’ve tried it a couple times, mostly on young hollies that were struggling, and it seemed to help a little. But I think the bigger factor is consistent moisture and wind protection, so I usually rely on mulch, wraps, and making sure they’re well-watered before the freeze. If you do opt for a spray, just follow the label directions closely and don’t overdo it. Sometimes less is more.

Rodent damage can also be an issue in winter, especially if there’s a thick layer of snow on the ground. Mice and voles can tunnel underneath and munch on bark where you can’t see them. This is why I avoid piling mulch too high against tree trunks and why I’ll occasionally clear away snow near the base if I suspect rodents are burrowing there. For young trees, a plastic tree guard can block them from gnawing. I had one small crabapple that got girdled by voles a few years ago, which killed it by the following spring. Ever since then, I’ve been more vigilant about checking for signs of tunneling or chew marks.

Throughout winter, I also keep an eye on weather reports. If there’s a predicted ice storm or extremely cold snap, I’ll double-check my younger trees to see if everything is secure. Sometimes, a bit of rope or a wooden stake to brace a small tree helps it avoid bending under ice or heavy snow. Of course, I don’t want to bind it so tight that it can’t move in the wind at all, but a little stability can prevent a crooked trunk later on. For established trees, there’s not much you can do except hope they’re strong enough to endure. If you’ve put in the time during the rest of the year—pruning wisely, watering regularly, and keeping them healthy—they’ll be in better shape to handle winter stress. And even if you do everything right, nature can still throw a curveball. But knowing you’ve taken steps to protect your landscape gives some peace of mind during those winter storms. Once spring arrives, you’ll be glad you took the time to shield your trees from the harshest conditions.

You Can Also Go For Tree Services!

Professional expertise is crucial when it comes to managing trees effectively. Local companies employ trained arborists who understand the specific needs of different tree species. This expertise allows them to provide tailored solutions that promote the health and longevity of your trees. By hiring a professional tree company, you can rest assured that your property is in capable hands, receiving the best possible care. The costs can vary based on the type of service and the specific circumstances of each job. These include tree trimming, tree removal, and emergency care, each addressing different aspects of tree maintenance.

Service Type	Average Cost	Cost Range
Tree Trimming	$130.36 per hour	$116.47 – $144.25 per hour
Tree Removal	$500 – $1,500 (average)	$200 – $2,000 (varies by size)
Stump Grinding	$75 – $300	$60 – $400
Tree Health Assessment	$100 – $300	Varies by tree size and location
Emergency Tree Services	$200 – $1,500	Higher rates for urgent calls

Additional Considerations

• Hourly Rates: The average hourly rate for a two-man crew performing tree trimming is approximately $130.364